Archive | February, 2009

deserted palace…

24 Feb

So I had the wonderful opportunity to be the mansy stylist for the recent Free Boutique fashion show. The Free Boutique, as you well know, is the only fashion forward free store in the world, so all these looks were made without spending a dime.   The fashion direction was Deserted Palace and is a fall collection inspired by runaway tsarinas, broken chandeliers, sand dunes on the dance floors, that type of thing.  This show came up unexpectedly, and since it’s been a while since the last donation party, the free b. clothes were pretty well picked over, but despite all that, I think I did a pretty good job!  Here are my favorite looks as modeled by Yuzo, Olive and Noah.

dsc_05971

Yuzo Nieto

As much as I’d like to take credit for thinking of the ripped jean/tights combo, they were directly stolen from the Bubbledome but since she is a post-apocalyptic giant cage of fashion smack downs, I figure she won’t mind a little pilfering now and again.  Plus this wouldn’t be the first time we’ve been called the Stolen Store!

dsc_0599

dsc_0845

dsc_0470

We have been wanting to do fashion shows ever since the free b. started but have never gotten around to it, but now that it’s on, you can expect a lot more!  I had so so so much fun putting it all together and it was hilahrious to see my friends’ personalities transform into ditzy models in a matter of hours.  Noah for example, was perhaps the cutest, as soon as he was dressed, it was like an episode of America’s Top Model and after a few hours he and his model cohorts were lap dancing, prancing around, constantly posing and at one point, found a bar of chocolate and had a chocolate makeout party… Models! I guess it goes to show that the absolute power of fashion corrupts absolutely!

Here’s the song that inspired the name of the collection by the supér Jean Michel Jarre:

deserted palace – jean michel jarre

Oh, and this isn’t a mansy look, but isn’t Geyl looking beautiful!

dsc_06072

chichikov utility and mudwear

11 Feb

This last week I’ve been taking a respite in New Mexico and during this time I have realized a little oversight on the part of the Boulevardier when it comes to [deep breath] functionality.  To get to our casita (that’s Spanish for castle), we had to walk about a mile through a field of mud and during the 6th or 7th time I realized I needed to reconsider my attitude toward mud and clothes that can handle the elements.  I’ve been reticent to go this route in the column because I think many mansies use utility as an excuse to give up on all style and appearance, but after walking a mile in some ugly borrowed Xtremist hiking boots, I now see that this needs to be addressed, post haste.  My first inspiration along these lines came while rereading Gogol’s Dead Souls, which I decided to pick up after it was featured so prominently in Bruce LaBruce’s Otto

nikolaigogol

In the book, Chichikov is a sort of dandy-cum-grifter who travels around getting people to give or sell the deeds to their peasants that have died so that he can mortgage them later, a classic recipe for hilarity.  Being a grifter, he is constantly conscious of his appearance and makes every effort to look as upright and sophisticated as possible, something I’ve touched on before in this column.  The peak of his grifter dandism occurs at the end of the book where he’s about to be uncovered for smuggling, fabricating a will and acquiring dead souls on false pretenses, but instead of trying to secure his future he goes to the tailor and buys a suit made of this extremely rare and fashionable fabric, that is like the flames and smoke of Navarino:

Chichikov magnanimously paid the tailor and, left alone, began to examine himself at leisure in the mirror, like an artist, with an aesthetic feeling and con amore.  It turned out that everything was somehow ever better than before: the little cheeks were more interesting, the chin more alluring, the white collar imparted its color to the cheek, the blue satin tie imparted its hue to the collar: the shirtfront, pleated in the latest fashion, imparted its hue to the tie, the rich velvet waistcoat imparted its hue to the shirt front, and the tailcoat of the flames and smoke of Navarino, gleaming like silk, imparted its hue to everything!  He turned to the right- good! He turned to the left- even better! The curve of the waist was like a courtier’s or some gentleman’s as jabbers away in French so that next to him a Frenchman himself is nothing, one who, even when angry, does not disgrace himself indecently with a Russian word, who cannot even swear in Russian, but will give you a good scolding in French dialect.  Such delicacy! He tried, inclining his head slightly to one side, to assume a pose as if he were addressing a middle-aged lady of the latest cultivation: it was a picture to see.  Painter, take up your brush and paint! In his pleasure, he straightaway performed a light leap, like an entrechat.  The chest of drawers shook and a flask of eau de cologne fell to the ground; but this caused no hinderance.  He quite properly called the stupid flask a fool, and thought: “Whom shall I visit first of all? The best…”

At this point in the story he is arrested and thrown in jail, but nonetheless it’s a delightful scene, and a warning for all fashionable mansies to watch your back! Now to return to the mud, Chichikov in his endless hustling, finds himself doing a great deal of traveling on roads, not unlike the ones that I found myself on in New Mexico, and even when his britzka is overturned in a mud pit he still manages to maintain his dignity and would never resort to a hiking boot or other contemporary vulgarities. This is possible for the mansy as well, I think the riding boot can be a perfect substitute for the Xtremist option and the trench coat can be worn as well, so long as it has flourishes that demonstrate restraint and poise, and avoids all goth references at all costs.  Now while I think Rick Owens tends to design menswear for himself, ie: an LA rocker (more on my anti-rocker activism to come!), I think he did a bang up job designing the fashion for Otto and has a few pieces in his other collections that approach this Chichikov idea of utility while maintaining form.

owen_mw_aw06_0012owen_mw_aw06_0007owen_mw_aw06_0027

This pieces are clearly more drab than I would prefer for myself, they certainly don’t invoke anything close to “the flames and smoke of Navarino” but still I think they are a good start. Maybe if Rick Owens somehow magically combined with Katy Early’s collection based on the Bulgakov’s Master and Margarita, we’d have something to work with…

rca_08_ma_1797rca_08_ma_1845rca_08_ma_1816rca_08_ma_1807

Oh, and here’s a pic from the sartorialist that I’m in love with, though definitely not mudwear, note the trenchcoat.

1159greenglovesweb

sneak peek from the blab interview…

11 Feb

I recently had the opportunity to interview Bruce LaBruce for the first issue of Cake and Eat It, an anarchist lifestyle magazine that is coming out this spring.  Bruce is a true gem, he helped to start the queercore movement with his zine J.D.s (click here to read issue #1 online), his films are simply to die for, and he is a wonderful fashion photographer to boot!  Here is one of my favorite shoots by him, there’s not a lot of fashion going on here but it’s fun nonetheless:

tetu-unotetu-3tetu-4tetu-6tetu-7

and here’s a little sneak peek from the interview, the whole thing will come out this spring:

onset2_1

In your opinion, what does a queer anarchist direct action look like and what are some of your favorite ways to upset power dynamics whether interpersonally or politically?

I think civil disobedience is a good start, although I have to confess I’m a bit of a coward when it comes to participating in any action that might involve me getting arrested. Living in Canada, any infraction can be used as an excuse to prevent you from having access to the US, so I’ve always avoided getting any sort of criminal record. It’s important for me to travel with my work and represent it personally. For me the very act of making sexually explicit gay movies is a kind of direct action, particularly considering that I try to get them shown in fairly mainstream and non-gay contexts. Ever since I made punk fanzines and experimental super 8 movies in the eighties, I’ve treated the use of explicit homosexual material as an act of aggression and subversion. I’ve also used it to represent the fringe elements of a largely conservative and assimilationist gay movement, so I’m all about questioning any sort of homosexual orthodoxy. Otherwise, I do think that things are so monumentally fucked up in the world right now that the occasional brick through a window is supportable. I also support pranks (as long as they don’t involve celebrities), public indecency, sexual transgression, weather-inappropriate dressing, insubordination, disestablishmentarianism, vagabondage, insolence, trespassing, promiscuity, and love, love, and love.

What’s the juiciest rumor you’ve heard lately?

Oh I don’t know. Nobody ever tells me anything because I have such a big mouth.

What’s your favorite flower?

The peony. My grandmother grew them. Here name was Gertrude. We were very close.

It’s cute when guys… [fill in the blank]

…want to fuck you even when you’re old.

What’s been your favorite movie to make and why?

My latest movie, Otto; or, Up with Dead People, was the most fun to make because it was my biggest budget so far by about a factor of five or six and I had a longer shooting schedule than ever before. I had a better camera package and a bigger crew, so I had a lot more to play around with. It was more fun because for the first time I wasn’t trying to make something out of virtually nothing, which is my usual M.O. Although that can be satisfying also.

I felt that Otto was all at once devastatingly beautiful, somber, intellectual and hilarious, what were some of your biggest influences in creating this tone? In particular how did Gogol or Maya Deren play into your creative process?

Actually I started out looking at the cartoons of Charles Addams, Edward Gorey, and Aubrey Beardsley. Then I re-watched the great American Indie horror films Night Tide by Curtis Harrington and Carnival of Souls by Herk Harvey, both of which have that great melancholy, haunted quality that most modern horror films don’t have. Then of course I re-watched all the Maya Deren films, which have that great spooky, avant-garde atmosphere, like a dreamscape. She and Gogol were both born in the Ukraine, so I guess there’s that deeply Russian sensibility that I relate to for some reason, the despair and angst mixed with heavy spirituality and dark humour. I think I have to visit the Ukraine!

Are there any films in the works that we can get excited about or is it all very hush hush?

All I can do is tell you the working title: Gerontophilia.

Since you don’t seem to have any gossip to feed us, what message would you like to give to the next generation?

I hear that Anderson Cooper is into Blatinos.

 

highlights from fashion week…

2 Feb
So I’m not really that excited about any collections in their entirety but here are a few interesting looks that caught my eye.  I think in menswear especially, there is a lot more interesting things going on outside of the runway, but it is best to cover all the bases.
 
A/W 09

The collection by Number (N)ine is totally insane but I could really see some crusty punks take this look on. 

Number (N)ine

Number (N)ine

Number (N)ine

Number (N)ine

Number (N)ine

Number (N)ine

 

I’m worried about putting a cane on this column because it’s a very bad idea but this is a perfect prototype for a DIY crocheted jacket. 
Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

A lovely collection and a contemporary interpretation on the Black Panther ensemble, something I’ll be covering more in depth in the near future.

GaultierGaultier

Gaultier

Gaultier

Gaultier

Gaultier

 

A little formal, but a good look for a dinner party or activist mixer:

Walter Van Beirendonck

Walter Van Beirendonck

 

more after the jump…

Continue reading 

damn you, kanye… part 1

2 Feb

Perfection!

jak_kanyewest_entourage

p40005h

Also there’s this video that heavily factors into things.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.